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Monday, February 08, 2010

TomTom Homer Simpson Voice

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Many TomTom GPS navigation systems (like the TomTom Go 630) let you download celebrity voices to replace the built-in, generic voice.  I recently purchased and installed the Homer Simpson voice and will provide a review here.

Price: Celebrity voices range in price from about $5 to about $15.  Homer is $13.  I held back on paying for any voices, but my kids really really wanted to hear Homer tell me how to get to the Krispy Kreme donut shop (which he successfully did yesterday).

Novelty: You can listen to a sample of Homer’s GPS voice here.  It is pretty funny, but the novelty wears off quickly.  It’s fun though using Homer’s voice with new people in the car that haven’t heard it.

Installation: Installation is simple (assuming you have room on your device).  Assuming you’ve already installed the TomTom Home software on your computer, Just plug your TomTom up to your computer, which starts TomTom Home.

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From there, click on “Add Traffic, Voices, Safety Cameras, etc.”.

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From there:

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Click “Voices”, then “Recorded Voices”:

image image

You can browse their whole catalog of voices from Anthony Hopkins to Homer Simpson.  Click, buy, download.

Once installed onto your TomTom, you’ll have to activate that voice.  Follow the proper procedures for disconnecting your TomTom from your computer (you don’t want to disconnect it while it’s in the middle of a download!!!).  Once disconnected, tap the map on your TomTom touchscreen, choose “Options”, then “Voices”.  You should be able to find your Homer Simpson voice.

Enjoy!

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Saturday, February 06, 2010

How to speed up an old computer

Short and quick answer:

Toss it and buy a new one.

Medium effort answer:

Take it to your local computer expert, pay them a decent fee for their knowledge and efforts to fix it up.  They may recommend some minimal hardware upgrades too.  Pay for these upgrades (hardware cost plus service fee for the guy upgrading it).

The long, do-it-yourself answer:  (Be honest, do you know enough to perform hardware upgrades or sophisticated software configuration changes????)

I’m frequently asked by family and friends what can be done about speeding up an old computer, but in a cost effective manner.  The answer to this question (when cost is considered) changes over time because the price of software and hardware components change at difference rates.  Also, each individual’s time is also worth a different dollar value.  If you make a decent amount of money, seriously, don’t waste your time.  Pay someone else to do it for you.

If your time isn’t worth much or if you insist on doing it yourself, in spite of being able to afford the cost of someone else doing it for you, then here’s what I recommend:

For the last few years, (~2007 through now (2010) and for the foreseeable future) I recommend the following:

  • How old is your computer?  If it’s more than 5 years old, it’s probably not worth the time, effort, and cost to fix it.  My recommendation is to save yourself the trouble with minimal payoff and just buy a new (or a newer used computer).  You can keep your old computer as an emergency backup or just give it to a school or charity (wipe your hard drive clean before doing this!!!!!)
  • If it’s still somewhat modern, then you can upgrade some of it.  Here’s what I consider the bare minimum of worthwhile for an upgrading effort:
    • A CPU that’s at least 2Ghz fast.
    • A motherboard that can accept 4GB of RAM (or more), but has much less at the moment. (read on to find out how to know.)
  • Assuming you have a computer that fits the bare minimum upgrade worthiness, here’s what you need to do:
RAM

Max out your computer’s memory (don’t confuse memory with hard drive space!!!!!!!!!!!!).  As you’re using your computer, every time you run a program, that program has to be copied from your hard drive into your RAM, plus any data files you load must also be copied from the hard drive into the computer’s memory so that the program you’re running can use the data.  Your O/S (operating system) (Windows, Mac OS/x, Linux, or whatever you’re using) has already been loaded into memory, and so have dozens of other processes that you’re unaware of.  They all occupy memory space, PLUS they all consume extra memory while they’re working.  This memory runs out quickly.  When this happens, your OS stops everything for a moment, copies a big chunk of it out to your hard drive, then loads another chunk back in from your hard drive, to work with THAT.  You’ll notice this slow down as your hard drive light starts flashing and you’ll hear crunching and churning sounds coming from your computer as everything slows way down.  The more memory your computer has, the less often it needs to do this.

More memory doesn’t really speed up your computer, it results in your computer spending less time slowing itself down.  OK, OK!  Let’s call it a “speed up”.

memory used to be very expensive, but today, it’s dirt cheap.  Put the maximum amount of memory in your computer that your computer is capable of taking.  The next obvious question is:  How much memory can your computer take and what type of memory?  Well, it’s different for every computer, but there’s an easy way to find out.  Go to memory.com, crucial.com, or kingston.com.  All of them know about virtually every computer ever made.  You just fill out a simple form telling it the make and model of your computer and it will tell you the maximum amount of memory your computer can take AND type TYPE of memory your computer can take.  You can even purchase that memory right there on their site.

What about the memory your computer already has?  Whatever your computer already has, it likely will need to be pulled out and replaced.  In most cases, it’s not the highest capacity per memory module available.  You’ll have to remove it to make room for the higher capacity memory you’ll be buying.  You can try to sell it on ebay or Craig’s list, but old memory isn’t worth much.  You might be better off just donating it to a local school or charitable organization that might be able to use it and they’re usually at least 5 years behind the times with their technology.  Be sure to get a receipt for the give-away so you can write it off on your taxes!!!!

Processor (CPU)

Most computers these days don’t have a motherboard in them that can take a newer CPU, but if yours does, upgrading your CPU will give it extra horsepower.  Contact your computer maker to see if this is possible and to find out WHICH CPU(s) your computer can be upgraded to.  This may not be cost effective because in most cases where it can be upgraded, it’s usually limited to only a slightly faster CPU and won’t make much of a noticeable difference.  Consult your local guru to find out if it’s much of a speed difference.

Hard Drive

Hard drive technology has been the fastest advancing technology in the last 5 or so years (this article was written in February 2010).  5 years ago, a 100GB hard drive was about as big as you could get and it was a couple hundred dollars.  Today, only 5 years later, it’s hard to find a hard drive that small.  You can now get a 2.5TB (or 2,500GB) hard drive for about the same price AND today’s hard drives are MUCH faster than those of 5 years ago.

A 5 year old computer won’t likely support the latest type of hard drive (SATA… called Serial ATA).  5 years ago, the standard in hard drives was called ATA and those drives used a different kind of data plug and a different kind of power plug.  Newer SATA drives may not work in your old computer.  Contact your computer maker to find out what kind of drives are supported AND find out what the maximum size drive your old computer will support.  No point in buying a 2.5TB hard drive if your computer can’t use anything more than 500GB.

If your computer has an unused, internal expansion slot (most computers have 2 or more), you may be able to get a SATA expansion card, THEN you can plug in the latest and greatest hard drives.

A side note on purchasing decisions for hard drives:  Always wait until the last possible moment to upgrade your hard drive (just before you run out of space or just until you need it) because the longer you wait, the cheaper the drives are and the bigger they are.

Quite honestly though, upgrading your hard drive won’t give you much of a noticeable difference in speed.  Defragmenting your old drive will have a much greater impact.  Of course, a newer hard drive will be faster than defragmenting your old one, because it’s bother faster AND already defragmented, but the speed difference between a new, unfragmented drive and an old defragmented drive won’t be much.  It’s probably not worth the cost of the new drive and the aggravation of installing it.  If you need the extra space, then by all means, upgrade the drive (or just buy an external USB drive… It’s much less effort if all you need is more space).

Windows Upgrade

Upgrading Windows in most cases will NOT speed up your computer.  Usually, newer versions of Windows need more and more memory, which will just slow you down on an older computer.  However, reinstalling your existing Windows will greatly improve the speed of your computer.  This is because the more you use your computer, the more junk and broken software you’ll have on it and this slows down your system.  A fresh install makes a big difference.  But, this comes at a cost of your time and patience.  You’ll need to make sure you’ve got the original installation media AND the Windows activation key.  You’ll need to back up your data.  Also, you’ll have to reinstall EVERY program you intent to use, so make sure you’ve got the install media for ALL of your software AND all of the CD keys and serial numbers and such they all need for installation and activation.  ALSO, some software you have is likely just an UPGRADE of an older version and you may need the OLDER version too.  Make sure you’ve got your ducks (or discs) in a row before you head down this path.

64bit vs. 32bit.

If you’re going to upgrade Windows, you may want to go ahead and make the switch from 32bit to 64bit.  Be careful though, if you use OLD software, some of it may have problems or not work at all on 64bit.  Newer software shouldn’t have any problems with 64bit Windows.

Why 64bit?  If you have 4 GB or more of memory, 32bit Windows simply can’t make use of it all.  64bit Windows can use it all.  Also, 64bit might be a tad bit faster in some situations.  Of course, having access to more memory means less hard drive thrashing, but 64 bit code is generally a tad bit faster.  This tiny speed bump is not likely noticeable, but the extra memory speed bump may be.  Switching from 32 bit Windows to 64 bit Windows means you’ll have to purchase a 64 bit version of Windows.  It also means a FRESH install, so again, with the warnings in the section above of upgrading and getting all your software installation media ready applies here too.

To sum it up:
  • The best bang for your buck is maximizing your RAM.
  • If you’re not going to install a fresh copy of your existing Windows or if you’re not going to upgrade to 64 bit Windows, then at least defragment your hard drive.
  • Upgrading your CPU, if it’s even possible, may not produce much of a noticeable speed up and will usually cost more than it’s worth.
  • Your time and effort may be better served by getting a newer computer.  The older your computer is, the less likely it’s capable of receiving newer equipment and just becomes a burden.  Don’t waste time putting leather seats and new tires on a Pinto if you can get a Jaguar for just a few dollars more.
Security

One final note:  Windows XP is ancient history, in spite of the fact that most people are still running Windows XP.  Microsoft will NOT be supporting this operating system soon.  Additionally, we’re TWO generations beyond that version.  Don’t be taken in by the old adage “Well, it worked 5 years ago and it’ll work now.”  One critically important thing you’re forgetting:  Hackers know MORE today than they did 5 years ago about Windows XP and they KNOW HOW TO BREAK INTO YOUR WINDOWS XP COMPUTER!!!!!!!  If you’re going to access the internet from your old computer, then for the love of all that is decent, UPGRADE TO AT LEAST WINDOWS VISTA and preferably, to Windows 7 (for security and performance reasons, NOT for usability reasons).  Microsoft will continue supporting Windows Vista and Windows 7 for many years to come and will continue providing security updates for them.

Internet Explorer:

DO NOT USE INTERNET EXPLORER 6.0!!!! or anything older.  You MUST upgrade to at least IE7.  IE8 is the current version as of this writing.  If you run IE6, you’re essentially shining a spotlight on the clouds with a sign reading, “Please hack my computer, it’s wide open!”.  I recommend against using Internet Explorer at all (any version).  My recommendation is the latest version of FireFox.

Realistic Sum Up:

When you take into consideration the realistic security concerns, the bare minimum you should consider running on today’s internet is:

  • Windows Vista 32 bit (I recommend whatever the latest version of Windows is and a 64 bit version of it)
  • Internet Explorer 7 (I recommend whatever the latest version of IE is, or even better, the latest version of FireFox)

The minimum hardware you need for Windows Vista and IE7 without significant slow down is:

  • 2Ghz or faster processor.
  • 2 GB RAM.  (I recommend maxing out your memory).
  • 100GB hard drive, defragmented, with at least a dozen or more GB free. (Bigger drives are better but won’t speed anything up.)

So, in spite of the fact that you can upgrade your old computer to speed it up, if you can’t upgrade it to at least the specs listed just above, I strongly recommend avoiding the temptation to upgrade your computer and just buy something new (or something newer).  The cost in the long run will actually be lower and your stress levels now and in the future will be much lower.  You don’t need the heart ache of someone hacking your computer and the problems in your offline life it will make and you don’t need the repeated virus infections you’re sure to get running less secure versions of Windows and Internet Explorer.

Wednesday, February 03, 2010

Windows 7 Tips, Tricks, and Notes

 

Tap&Go PayPass – Avoid it like the plague

If you get one of these things from your credit card provider (mine was from my BestBuy MasterCard), destroy it IMMEDIATELY!!!!  Call them up (using the number on the back of your credit card, NOT the “activation” number on the Tap&Go sticker) and tell them to cancel the Tap&Go PayPass chip ASAP and make sure it NEVER gets activated on your account, then destroy it again!

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This is the WORST piece of bad security ever pushed on the public.  Here’s how Tap&Go works:

  • You’re making a purchase at a retailer that supports the technology.
  • You have the sticker (which has a micro-chip in it) on the back of your cell phone (for convenience only).
  • You tap the retailer’s Tap&Go pad, which automatically sends out a wireless, digital signal, which is received by your chip in your sticker, which then confirms the purchase, wirelessly.
  • No signature required.

Sounds convenient, right?  Well sure, but if (uh yah, not “if”, but “when”) a criminal walks past you in the subway, in the mall, on the sidewalk, THEY can then charge up to $50 on your card and you never even took the card out of your wallet!!!

Sure, they claim you’re not liable for any unauthorized charges, but you are required to examine each of your credit card statements for suspicious charges and actively notify your credit card company within a given time limit, otherwise they WILL charge you.

Save yourself the trouble and NEVER activate this.

Quicken 2010 bugs

This is just an online, public bug report about bugs in Quicken 2010. I’m hoping that publishing them will quicken (pardon the pun) Intuit into fixing them.

See also

Here are the bugs I’ve found so far:
  • Sometimes, accepting a downloaded transaction causes Quicken 2010 to crash.  First though, when clicking the “Accept” button, the register flickers for about 1000 milliseconds (about 1 full second), then the program crashes (this is on Windows 7 Ultimate with all the latest service updates).  Quicken version = Quicken Home & Business 2010 Release 5.
  • No Sound:  Quicken has several sounds for different events like startup (a short tune), accept transaction (cha-ching), and others.  All of a sudden, Quicken 2009 (yes, 2009) stopped playing sounds.  Yes, the play sounds option is indeed checked and yes, sound works in all other programs (this is not my first time messing with a computer, BTW :)  I upgraded to Quicken 2010 at the first of the year.  The upgrade involved uninstalling Quicken 2009, then freshly installing 2010.  The sounds worked… for about a week or two, then they stopped again.
  • File corruption:  This is a serious issue.  EVERY TIME I call Quicken support, they claim the file is corrupt.  This seems to be their excuse for all bugs in the software.  They want to dismiss any issue as a bug and claim it’s a corrupt file.  Fine, it’s a corrupt file.  Now, fix Quicken so it STOPS CORRUPTING my files!  This has been going on through at least 3 versions of Quicken (2007, 2009, 2010 (I skipped 2008)).  A bug this serious requires a complete rewrite of their file access data layer routines.
  • Renaming Rules: This is quite an annoying bug. I personally do not want Quicken to rename my payees, yet there seems to be NO WAY to prevent Quicken from doing so. I participated in 3 online tech support chats and 2 call-back phone support incidents in the last week. NONE of their suggestions worked AND they refuse to accept that this is a bug. Here’s the problem: When you download transactions using PC Banking, then go and accept your transactions, Quicken will suggest renaming rules… actually, it will DICTATE renaming rules. You cannot tell it “No”. Furthermore, the dialog box that pops up informing you of the new dictatorial renaming rules being forced on you, has a check box that says something like “don’t inform me of renaming rules again”. There are 2 problems with this.
    1. I believe that checking it only causes to Quicken to not inform you of new renaming rules, but it’ll still make new renaming rules.
    2. You only have 2 buttons “Apply” and “Cancel”. If you click “Apply”, it’ll apply the rule(s) that it’s showing you. I think that’s the only way to enforce the checkbox for “don’t tell me anymore”. If you click “cancel”, you’re canceling the dialog box and therefore canceling your check box “don’t tell me anymore” which means it’ll continue to tell you. Also, canceling the dialog box does not prevent it from enforcing the rule.
    • This has been a bug since at least Quicken 2007. image
    • I’ve reported this problem at least a dozen times to Quicken support since 2007.  It wasn’t until early to mid 2009 that they finally acknowledged that this was a bug and I was told that this was being fixed.  Well, many Quicken 2009 updates later AND a major new version (2010), this bug still remains.

See also

Tuesday, February 02, 2010

Windows 7 Classic Start Menu

The classic start menu doesn’t exist in Windows 7 anymore, but you can get the primary piece of functionality that everyone misses.

For those that don’t know:  In Windows XP, Microsoft introduced an alternative start menu layout and made it the default.  It was funky and didn’t make a lot of sense to advanced users.  But, the “classic” start menu (which is much more productive) was always an option.  In Windows 7, Microsoft decided they wanted to force their preferences on everyone and took away the classic start menu, forcing everyone to be less productive by requiring more mouse clicks, and some times adding unnecessary scrolling, to get to a program icon to start a program.  The programs menu is now forced into a constrained, tiny space on the screen.  For amateurs that have very little software installed, this may not be a big deal, but to those of us with dozens of programs installed, it’s a pain in the ass and a reduction in productivity.

Specifically, what we’ll be restoring in this article is the fully expanded programs menu, so you aren’t constrained to that newbie, tiny area for all your programs, like this:

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We can actually get our fully expanded program files menu back so that it looks like this:

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It won’t actually be in the start menu though.  But, since it’s not in the start menu, it actually means you’ll have one less click than what you needed in XP.  Here’s how:

  1. Open your start menu.
  2. Right-click on “All Programs”.image
  3. Choose “Open All Users”.  This opens a Windows Explorer window to your folder that contains all of your installed program icons and folders. image
  4. In the address bar, click in the blank area to the right of “Start Menu”, which will select the full path.
  5. Hit [Ctrl]+[C] to copy the path.
  6. Right-click your task bar, choose “Toolbars”, then “New Toolbar”. image
  7. Click in the empty “Folder:” text entry field and hit [Ctrl]+[V] to paste the path you copied from your start menu window.
  8. Click “Select Folder”.

Now you’ve got a new toolbar on your start menu.  Resize it to its smallest size.  Now, when you click it, viola!  You’ve got your old, fully expandable, programs menu back… the primary, missing, more productive piece of functionality that the Microsoft UI Nerds took away from us.

You’re welcome!

Here are some related stories:

  • Windows 7 Explorer: Getting the tree view back
  • Get your Quick Launch bar back under Windows 7
  • What’s wrong with Windows 7’s Task Bar (or “Super ...
  • Sunday, January 17, 2010

    MySQL with .NET and prefix problems

     

    Heads up to MySQL and .NET developers.  MySQL appears to have a bug in the .NET connector code.  If you’re using typed datasets and drag a table from the server explorer onto your data set designer, it will appear to work (and it does), but it also generates SQL code with the name of the database hard coded in front of the table name.  This is not a problem if the name of your development database is the same as your test and production databases.

    If your production or test database has a different name than your development database (the database you were connected to when you dragged the table or other DB object from server explorer onto your data set design surface), then when you change your connection string to use your test or production database with a different name, it will fail, even if you explicitly specify the name of your production or test database in your connection string, the hard coded development database name is STILL in the generated SQL and your code will fail to execute.

    The solution is to manually remove the hard coded database name prefix from all of the generated SQL in your typed data set.

    ApacheDS “service unavailable” error

    If you’re writing code that uses Apache Directory Server (a free, open source LDAP server), you may get the error “service unavailable” frequently.  Apparently, there’s an issue with making 2 consecutive calls quickly to the ApacheDS server.  If you put a delay of about 1/2 second between calls, this will usually work around the problem.

    ApacheDS does not appear to be capable of handling rapid requests to it.

    Apache Directory Server: Old password still works after change.

     

    ApacheDS is a free, open source LDAP server.  If you’ve ever heard of Microsoft Active Directory, it serves the same purpose of that, without requiring you to purchase a full blown Windows Server license to gain that capability.

    There’s an issue with it though.  If you’ve ever noticed that after you change a password to an account in ApacheDS, that both the new AND the old password continue to work?  There is some problem with ApacheDS, probably a caching issue, in which the old password is still valid for up to around 2 minutes afterwords.

    If you’re writing unit tests with tools like NUnit or anything else and your test code creates a new account, changes the password, then validates the password is changed by attempting to login with the old password, you’ll notice that test will fail almost all the time by allowing a login with the old password.  You’ll need to put in a timer after the password has been changed.  I recommend a loop of 90 iterations of 1 second waits.  At the end of each 1 second wait, attempt to login with the old password.  Continue this for up to 120 tries until the old password fails or until the 120th try.  At the 120th try, if it still logs in with the old password, give up and call it failed.  If it fails at or before the 90th attempt, call the test a success.

    Knowing that there is a delay will save you hours of research.  Rest assured, the problem is NOT in your own code.

    Subversion: Unlinking a local folder from a Subversion folder on the server

    Purpose of this post:

    To demonstrate how to disconnect Subversion from controlling a folder on your local drive using TortoiseSVN.  The commands in TortoiseSVN are very vague and in this case, counter-intuitive.

    Intended Audience:

    Programmers new or somewhat new to Subversion Version Control System.

    Target Platform and Tools:

    This will be on a Windows client platform (server platform is not relevant to this discussion) using the TortoiseSVN Windows Shell extension (It adds a right-click menu to folders in Windows Explorer).

    Expectations of the reader:

    It’s assumed that the reader:

    • has already downloaded and installed TortoiseSVN.
    • has access to a Subversion server.
    • Can perform basic operations on Subversion with TortoiseSVN.
    • understands the basic concepts of version or source control (repository, check in (commit), check out (update), etc…)
    • is a programmer or system administrator.
    • is reading this post to learn how to unlink a local folder from a Subversion repository, while performing the operation on a Windows client with TortoiseSVN.
    • has a folder somewhere on their hard drive with source files in it that are already being controlled by Subversion.
    What this post does NOT do:
    • Teach you about the basics of version control (or source control).
    • Teach you how to install any components of any software.
    • anything other than provide what you need to know to disconnect a local folder from a Subversion repository.
    • talk about any particular programming language.
    • try to convince you that Subversion is better or worse than any other version control system.
    What is “Unversioning” or “Unlinking” or “Disconnecting”?

    Neither of these are “official” terms.  As a matter of fact, there does not appear to be an official term for this type of operation.  In short, what we’re talking about here is the act of stopping a local folder from being connected to a Subversion repository in any way.  You’d think this would be simple to find, but it’s not.

    How to Unversion or Unlink or Disconnect:
    1. In Windows Explorer (not Internet Explorer!!!), right-click your local folder that’s currently under Subversion control that you wish to no longer be under Subversion control.
    2. Choose “TortoiseSVN”, then “Export”.
    3. The “Browse for folder” dialog box comes up.  Use that to find the SAME folder you just right-clicked on then click the “OK” button.
    4. TortoiseSVN will recognize that it’s already versioned and will offer you the opportunity to unversion it with the following dialog box:
      • image
    5. Click “Yes”.

    Your folder will no longer be versioned or linked to subversion.  It’s now just another folder on your hard drive.

    Related articles (articles that aren’t links have not yet been written):

    Wednesday, January 13, 2010

    Subversion Merge: Merging your working branch back into the trunk.

    Purpose of this post:

    To demonstrate how and why to merge a branched project under Subversion Source Control back with it’s root project.  The documentation provided with TortoiseSVN, while extensive, is confusing and vague.  Many of the actions described both in the documentation and in the TortoiseSVN GUI are not clear whether they are acting on the local drive or on the server.  The terminology is inconsistent.  This post makes it clear.

    Intended Audience:

    Programmers new or somewhat new to Subversion Version Control System.

    Target Platform and Tools:

    This will be on a Windows client platform (server platform is not relevant to this discussion) using the TortoiseSVN Windows Shell extension (It adds a right-click menu to folders in Windows Explorer).

    Expectations of the reader:

    It’s assumed that the reader:

    • has already downloaded and installed TortoiseSVN.
    • has access to a Subversion server.
    • Can perform basic operations on Subversion with TortoiseSVN.
    • understands the basic concepts of version or source control (repository, check in (commit), check out (update), etc…)
    • is a programmer or system administrator.
    • is reading this post to learn how to perform a branch operation on a Windows client with TortoiseSVN to a Subversion server.
    • has a folder somewhere on their hard drive with source files in it that are already being controlled by Subversion.
    • Has already performed a branch, is working with the branch, and now would like to merge that branch back to the server folder from which it was originally branched.
    What this post does NOT do:
    • Teach you about the basics of version control (or source control).
    • Teach you how to install any components of any software.
    • anything other than provide what you need to know to perform a merge operation.
    • talk about any particular programming language.
    • try to convince you that Subversion is better or worse than any other version control system.
    What is “Merging”?

    For the purposes of this discussion, “Merging” is the act of getting a branched copy of a project on the Subversion server to merge back into the original folder on the server from which it was originally branched.

    How to Merge:
    1. From your local, working folder that’s linked to your branched project on the Subversion folder, perform a commit to get all your changes checked back into your branched copy on the server.
    2. Do an update to ensure your local, working copy has the latest files from the branched copy on the server.
    3. If you don’t already have a local folder that is linked to your Subversion server’s trunk folder of your project (or the original server folder from which your branch was originally branched), then make a new, local folder and link that to your Subversion server’s trunk folder.  (You will be performing the merge from the local working copy of the server’s trunk folder).
    4. Right-click your local, working folder that’s linked to your server’s trunk folder and choose TortoiseSVN, Merge.
    5. Choose “Merge a range of revisions”. image
    6. Click “Next”.
    7. In the text box “URL to merge from”, make sure your server’s branched folder is entered.
    8. Click “Show Log” and select the latest version, then “OK”.
    9. Click “Next”.
    10. Click “Merge”.
    11. Wait for it to complete, then click “OK”.
    12. This merged the branched copy in the server to your local working copy of your trunk folder.  It’s still not yet on the server’s trunk folder.  Rick-click your local working copy of your trunk and choose “Commit” to push all the changes up to the server’s trunk folder.
    13. Do an “Update” on your local working folder that’s linked to your server’s trunk folder to ensure you have all the latest code (not just the latest from the old branched copy).
    14. Delete your branched folder on the server if you’re done with it.
    15. Delete your local working branch folder too, if you’re done with it (You should now be working with your local working copy of the server’s trunk folder).

    That’s it.  Your local working copy and your server’s trunk folder now have the latest changes from your branch.

    Related articles (articles that aren’t links have not yet been written):
    • Subversion Branch: How To

    • Subversion: Linking a local folder to a Subversion folder on the server.

    • Subversion: Unlinking a local folder from a Subversion folder on the server.

    • Subversion:  Checking out.

    • Subversion:  Checking in.

    Subversion Branch: How To

    Purpose of this post:

    To demonstrate how and why to branch a project under Subversion Source Control.  The documentation provided with TortoiseSVN, while extensive, is confusing and vague.  Many of the actions described both in the documentation and in the TortoiseSVN GUI are not clear whether they are acting on the local drive or on the server.  The terminology is inconsistent.  This post makes it clear.

    Intended Audience:

    Programmers new or somewhat new to Subversion Version Control System.

    Target Platform and Tools:

    This will be on a Windows client platform (server platform is not relevant to this discussion) using the TortoiseSVN Windows Shell extension (It adds a right-click menu to folders in Windows Explorer).

    Expectations of the reader:

    It’s assumed that the reader:

    • has already downloaded and installed TortoiseSVN.
    • has access to a Subversion server.
    • Can perform basic operations on Subversion with TortoiseSVN.
    • understands the basic concepts of version or source control (repository, check in (commit), check out (update), etc…)
    • is a programmer or system administrator.
    • is reading this post to learn how to perform a branch operation on a Windows client with TortoiseSVN to a Subversion server.
    • has a folder somewhere on their hard drive with source files in it that are already being controlled by Subversion.
    What this post does NOT do:
    • Teach you about the basics of version control (or source control).
    • Teach you how to install any components of any software.
    • anything other than provide what you need to know to perform a branch operation.
    • talk about any particular programming language.
    • try to convince you that Subversion is better or worse than any other version control system.
    What is “Branching”?

    Branching is when you have a project in a version control system and you want to split off (or clone) a copy of it and work with that copy, making changes (commits) to it over time.  At some later point, you may (or may not) decide to merge those changes back into the main (trunk or head) project.

    Part of the “Best Practices” of Subversion usage is to always create a branch when you start working on a new feature or version of a product.  When you’re done, you then merge your branched copy back into the main copy, then delete your branch.

    How to branch:
    1. Make sure your server project has a trunk folder and a branches folder.
    2. Starting with your local copy, commit (takes your local changes and uploads them to the server) all of your changes now (It’s important that your local copy and your server copy are both up to date).  This local copy should be linked to your trunk folder (or whatever server folder you want to branch from).
    3. Now, do an “update” (which gets the latest version from the server).
    4. Right-click your local folder, choose “TortoiseSVN”, then “Branch/Tag”
    5. In the “To URL” text box, you should see the current server folder that your local folder is linked to.  Change it to the new (yet to exist) branch folder you want your branched copy to exist in on the server.  In other words, in that text box, delete the work “trunk” and type the word “branches/” then the name of the branched copy.  This will cause a new folder to be created in the server repository under the “branches” folder.
    6. In the lower left, check the box “Switch working copy to new branch/tag”.  This will cause your local folder that you’re working from to be unlinked from the trunk folder from the server and then linked to the new branched copy on the server.  All future commits will go to the branched copy on the server and all updates to that local copy will come from the branched folder on the server.
    7. Click “OK”.

    You will now have a new subfolder on the server repository under your branches folder on the server.  Your local copy is no longer linked to your server’s trunk folder.  It’s now linked to your newly created subfolder in the repository under the branches folder on the server.

    If you now make changes to your local copy, then commit, your changes will be submitted to your branched copy on the server.  The trunk folder on the server will not receive your commits.  Further, any updates (downloading from the server) will come from your newly created folder on the server under the server’s branches folder.

    Related articles (articles that aren’t links have not yet been written):

    Friday, January 08, 2010

    Dish Network Coupon Expires 1/31/2010

     

    Thought I’d post this online just in case someone can use it:

    Here’s the text from the coupon (do not hold ME accountable for any of this.  I’m just copying the Dish Network text.  If you have a problem with this deal, contact Dish Network)

    Sign up for DISH Network today and get $30 off your first bill*

    Promotion Codes:

    Ordering Direct: DIRCDFDHA
    Ordering Retailer: RETCDFDHA

    PACKAGES STARTING AT

    $24.99/mo LOCK IN FREE FREE FREE
    Reg Price $39.99/mo YOUR SAVINGS
    FOR A YEAR
    HBO (8 channels)
    &
    Showtime
    (10 channels)
    DVR
    Upgrade
    ($5.98/mo DVR Service fee applies)
    --- Standard ---
    Professional
    Installation
    in up to
    4 rooms

    *Requires Agreement.  Restrictions apply, see reverse for details.

    Simply use this certificate number to get the $30 credit on your first bill.

    Get DISH Network Today!

    Call: 1-888-253-5853

    DRC88724863

    Click: www.dishnetwork.com

    OFFER EXPIRES 1/31/10

    Visit: your local participating Retailer

    Click image below to enlarge.

    image